Evolution Exotics

 

Size:

Adult males are approximately 3.5 inches and females are about 4 inches.

 

Enclosure:

They are not as big as other reptiles and one can be easily kept in a smaller enclosure.  I recomend at least 10 gallons per gecko.  They should be housed separately because fighting can occur.

 

Substrate:

These are sand dwelling geckos from the deserts of Australia.  They love to dig and should have at least 2 to 3 inches of sand to dig their burrows in.  Use silica free sand.  Some people use play sand from Lowes, but I've found that it has silica in it, so I prefer to err on the side of caution.  I have Zoo Med's Repti-Sand in my enclosures.  This sand is perfect for burrowing and you can get it from Amazon for pretty cheap.  Whatever sand you get, make sure that it can be used for burrowing, because you need to mist the cool side twice a week for them to build up their burrows.  

 

Lighting & Heating:

They are nocturnal and therefore do NOT need UVA or UVB lighting.  However you do need to supplement them their vitamins and calcium supplements.  Calcium with D3 should be shaken on the food, and a small bottlecap of Calcium without D3 should be left in their enclosure at all times.  Heating can be provided by heat tape, a UTH, or a ceramic heat lamp.  I have a rack system so I use heat tape.  Whatever you use, make sure you get a thermostat and properly check temperatures with either a thermometer, or my preferred method, an infrared temp gun that I bought from my local hardware store.  

 

Temperature & Humidity:

Geckos need a warm spot for them to lay on to aid in digestion.  At night when they come out from their burrows the sand on the hot side should be around 87-89 degrees.  Any higher can cause serious burns.  Humidity is essential to aid in their shedding.  Unlike some other geckos, their humidity shouldn't be too high, but must be high enough to keep the sand for their burrows wet, and you can accomplish their needs by spraying that every other day.

 

Feeding:

They are insectivores.  In captivity you can feed them mealworms, superworms, crickets, wax worms, and in some areas, dubia roaches.  I feed mine superworms and give them waxworms on occasion.  They also love crickets!  Make sure to give them their vitamins and calcium food supplement by tossing a bit on top of the worms and crickets at every other feeding.  While they necessarily don't need a water bowl, if you don't want to use one just make sure that when they're out and about at dusk and night that you mist them a little bit so that they can lick the moisture off of their bodies and glass.  

 

Sexual Maturity:

They reach sexual maturity not just by length of time, but by weight as well.  It can happen anwhere from a year on.  But for these guys it is best to wait until they're around 2 years of age. Unlike Leopard Geckos, these guys can not be sexed by temperature during their incubation.

 

Breeding:  Breeding should be taken with serious care and consideration.  It can be dangerous on the animals.  If it's something that you want to seriously consider doing with specific lines instead of using store-bought geckos, then there is plenty of information out there.  Otherwise, just enjoy the geckos you've got.  If you do want to get into gecko breeding, be sure to go to a reputable breeder and do the research!  Because there is a lot involved.  You will need a breeder rack system or plenty of room to house them.  You will also need equipment like incubators.  And if you're in it just to get some money, chances are, you won't make any.  This is not a get-rich scheme.  These are animals and mouths to feed, not something that you can just let outside when you get tired of dealing with them.  Most of these species are not native to your area and should you release them it could cause severe issues with the environment.  Think of the pythons that are taking over the Everglades in Florida.  So please think of these beautiful animals before you decide to have babies and take great care of them!