Evolution Exotics

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Size:

Hatchlings are about 2 to 4 inches in length, whereas adult sizes are approx. 7 to 10 inches.  

 

Enclosure:

They are not as big as other reptiles and one can be easily kept in a smaller enclosure.  I recommend at least a 10 gallon tank or if kept in a rack system, at least a 15 quart bin.  They also will need multiple hides and contrary to popular belief, they do indeed like to explore and climb.  They should be housed separately.  I do not believe in cohabitation!!!  I will not cohabitate my geckos or snakes and will not knowing sell to those that do.  The reason for that is aggression as well as illness prevention.  Males should not be housed with other males due to fighting, and if kept with females they will harass the females for breeding.  Females kept with each other can be territorial and hog the warm spots as well as the food.  I keep my geckos in a rack system.  In each bin there is a dry hide and a moist hide situated on the heat tape.  I also have hammocks and other items for them to climb on.  And also the food, water, and calcium dishes.

 

Substrate:

Tile or paper towels are a good substrate, as well as cabinet liner.  I have read horror stories of impaction due to sand, so do not use sand whatsoever.  You can go to your hardware store and have them cut tile to fit your enclosure.  You can use reptile carpet, but sometimes their feet can get entangled.  With slate tile, it is the safest way.

 

Lighting & Heating:

They are nocturnal and therefore do NOT need UVA or UVB lighting.  However you do need to supplement them their vitamins and calcium supplements.  Calcium with D3 should be shaken on the food, and a small bottlecap of Calcium should be left in their enclosure at all times.  Some people say to use the one without D3 in the bottlecap because of possible overdosing on the D3.  It would take a huge amount for them to overdose on D3, so I just use with D3.  Heating can be provided by heat tape, a UTH, or a ceramic heat lamp.  I have a rack system so I use Flexwatt heat tape.  I prefer the heat tape.  Whatever you use, make sure you use a thermostat and properly check temperatures with either a thermometer, or my preferred method, an infrared temp gun that I bought from my local hardware store.  

 

Temperature & Humidity:

Geckos need a warm spot for them to lay on to aid in digestion at a temperature of 89-90 degrees.  Any higher can cause burns.  You want a gradient from around 89-90 on the hot side to about 78-80 on the cool side.  That way they can cool off when they want to.  Humidity is essential to aid in their shedding.  Unlike some other geckos, their humidity shouldn't be too high, and you can accomplish your needs by using a humid hide filled with coconut fiber and spray that every other day to keep moist, but let it dry out between sprayings so mold won't develop.

 

Feeding:

They are insectivores.  In captivity you can feed them mealworms, superworms, wax worms, dubia roaches (where legal), and more.  I feed mine a staple meal of superworms and give them waxworms on occasion.  I'm also in the process of switching over to discoid roaches.  Make sure to give them their vitamins and calcium food supplement by tossing a bit on top of the food at every other feeding.  Water should be readily available to them in a small bowl constantly.  I recommend you stay away from crickets due to the fact that they are prone to pinworms and really aren't that healthy, in my opinion.

 

Sexual Maturity:

They reach sexual maturity not just by length of time, but by weight as well.  It can happen anywhere from 5 months on.  The only true way to know the sex of a hatchling is to get one from a breeder that has temperature sexed them.  If they have been incubated at certain temperatures then chances are it will be a certain sex.  There are always exceptions to every rule.  This site goes more into detail about temperatures and times at certain temps.

 

Breeding:  Breeding should be taken with serious care and consideration.  Not only can it be dangerous on the animals, there are plenty of leopard gecko breeders out there that have plenty to sell.  If it's something that you want to seriously consider doing with specific lines instead of using store-bought geckos, then there is plenty of information out there.  Otherwise, just enjoy the geckos you've got.  If you do want to get into gecko breeding, be sure to go to a reputable breeder and do the research, because there is a lot involved.

 

To learn more about caring for leopard geckos, check out Ron Tremper's website.